Sepi White MSH Powder - Undecylenoyl phenylalanine

Sepiwhite™ MSH (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine) is a premium cosmetic active developed by Seppic, widely used in brightening and tone-evening formulations. It is suitable for all skin types and ethnicities, and is designed to promote a more uniform and radiant-looking complexion.

Sepiwhite™ MSH is a lipoaminoacid derived from phenylalanine — an amino acid involved in melanin synthesis — and works by targeting the melanin synthesis pathway to help visibly reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Key Cosmetic Benefits

• Promotes a more uniform and radiant-looking complexion
• Helps visibly reduce the appearance of age spots and dark spots
• Supports a more even skin tone
• Demonstrated effectiveness across all skin types and ethnicities
• ECOcert certified; preservative-free, paraben-free, phthalate-free
• Readily biodegradable and non-phototoxic

Formulation Highlights

Sepiwhite™ MSH pairs well with other brightening actives. In formulator studies, combining it with niacinamide or ascorbyl glucoside showed enhanced tone-evening results. It is also compatible with AHAs for brightening-focused formulations.

Applications

• Brightening serums, targeted spot-correcting treatments, and moisturizers
• Anti-aging face and body gels, emulsions, and toners
• Revitalizing masks, eye products, and skin-perfecting make-up removers
• Pressed and loose mineral make-up powders, foundations, and highlighters

Formulating Guidelines

• Usage Rate: 0.2% (in combination with another brightener) up to 2% alone
• INCI: Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
• Solubility: Soluble in alcohol and oil; water-soluble at pH 7+
• Add to heated water or oil phase at above 60°C (140°F)
• At pH 5 or lower: incorporate into any formula type
• At pH 5–6.2: use with up to 20% ethanol (not ideal pH range)
• At pH 6.2 or higher: incorporate into any formula type

Compatibility & Stability

• Excellent stability — no expected color or odor changes
• Compatible with AHAs and kojic acid (pH below 5)
• Compatible with arbutin, niacinamide, and formulas above pH 7
• Compatible with sunscreens
• Suitable for aqueous, hydroalcoholic, or hydroglycolic formulas
• Suitable for clear, colorless formulas